Puglia-First Impressions

I arrived to Puglia late at night, and upon arrival in Bari, we drove for an hour in darkness to finally arrive at the spot where we were to stay for the first portion of our trip.  I was so excited because I had booked three nights in a trullo; a beautiful conical-roofed dwelling, typical to this part of Puglia. But when we finally got there, it was pitch black, and out in the countryside, there is very little in the way of street lighting. I would have to wait until morning to actually see my surroundings.

When morning came, it was such a pleasant surprise. The “neighborhood” was simply adorable. Our trullo was surrounded by others and each owner’s property was ringed by low walls made from the white rocks that had been cleared from the land. It being mid-March, winter was on the wane. The back patio was warm enough to have breakfast on, and from our private little terrace, we could watch the goings-on of the local people who were up much earlier, and hard at work long before we were.

Mid-March means spring is on the horizon. Animals are being born, gardens need tending, olive trees need pruning, and fields must be plowed. In fact many gardens were already in full swing, unbelievable compared to NY which I left still buried in snow. There were fields of cabbages, many leafy greens and artichokes galore growing nearby.

So, what were my main first impressions?

1) The trulli houses are simply amazing. The architectural style is just so unique. Someone told us the interior high ceilings acted like “dream catchers” to ward off nightmares. Some of the roofs are marked with mystical symbols, as it seems people from the area are quite superstitious. They remind me of little “hobbit” structures, and I have to keep pinching myself to remind myself that I’m not in some sort of fantasyland. 

2) It’s incredibly green in March. Maybe it’s because I’ve come from snow coated New York, but it is amazingly green here. Field upon field of green is lined out with the never-ending white rock walls and pockmarked with the cones of the trulli houses. Beautiful.

3)  As incredibly green as the fields are….the evening sky is just as incredibly blue. Sometimes, I see colors in nature, and think to myself this is what makes nature….nature. It’s the fact that there are these colors that are simply one-of-a-kind, uncopiable…..is that even a word? If I could have a sweater of that color, I would, but one doesn’t exist. 

4)  The parts of Puglia I have seen so far, are filled with the biggest (oldest) olive trees I have ever seen. They are heart-wrenchingly beautiful, and I can’t stop taking photos of them.

5) Food. Have I had good food yet? Please. It’s me talking. Of course, I’ve had good food. I’ve been impressed with the basic country-style of the food I’ve had so far. I’ve eaten a lot of beans and hearty greens. Some of the pastas have been brown with whole wheat, or green with spinach or basil. The texture of the pasta so far, has been a little heavier than I’m used to, and dishes have been really filling. I feel like I’m still eating winter fare. In addition, down by the ocean, I've had some Amazing seafood!

6) Wine. Have I had good wine yet? Please. It’s me talking. Of course, I’ve had good wine. I’ve been partaking of primitivo, negroamaro, aglianico and salice salentino (a blend), and falanghina, a lovely white. The only problem is I keep forgetting to take pictures of the bottles. Sorry.


So those are my very first impressions of Central Puglia. There is some much more to come. Every day brings new beautiful moments, more delicious food, and great wine. Stay tuned......