​I have always wondered how certain towns get featured in guidebooks. As I’ve traveled the length of Italy, I have stopped in towns I am “supposed” to stop in and found most of them charming. But at the same time, I’ve stopped in so many towns that are simply not featured in the guidebooks and found most of them to be equally charming. The problem with going to the featured towns is that everyone else is going there too. Recently, in the heart of Maremma, the less-discovered southwestern portion of Tuscany, I stumbled upon a hidden gem. Welcome to Semproniano….a simple and charming town, which holds a special surprise.

My two-night stay at the seemingly unassuming Locanda la Pieve turned into one of my best hotel stays ever. Was it a five-star hotel? No. Was I served breakfast in bed, or drinks by the pool? No. In fact, there is no pool. What there is instead is the charming, gracious and wonderful hospitality of Angela and Enrico Cipolletta.

city center. Eight years ago, they decided to leave the hustle and bustle of Rome and the corporate world behind, and move out into the country where they could create a home for themselves, and a home for their guests.

​The two of them; the entire “staff” of the hotel do it all. Yet, they manage to do it with the utmost of grace, charm, humor and friendliness. They set their guests instantly at ease and welcome you into their “slow-living” life. Each morning there is a beautiful breakfast comprised of freshly baked breakfast cake among other things. During my stay, I was treated to a lemon-poppyseed bread on one day and a prune galette on the next, courtesy of Angela. In addition there are cereals, yogurt, croissants, bread, fresh fruit and always fresh ricotta served with homemade jams (again courtesy of Angela) and local honey. Coffees and teas of your choice are freshly served to you. 

​Lest you think Angela does all the work, let’s discuss what Enrico does. While Angela is queen of desserts from the kitchen, Enrico cooks everything else. Dinner is served each night and is only available to guests of the hotel. I asked them why this was their policy….wouldn’t they make more money opening up to the public every night? Enrico agreed this would be true, but it was simply not their philosophy. They don’t want to offer an endless array of plates to an endless line of diners every night. 

​Enrico concentrates on cooking just what he needs to cook for each night’s number of guests. He only serves what is in season, and what can be purchased locally. There is no menu, and a great part of the fun is sitting at your table wondering what is going to arrive next, and how it could possibly top the last plate Angela brought out from the kitchen. I felt as though I was “in” on a secret dining experience!

One of the things I loved most about the meal was the portions. In a “normal” restaurant, I might start with an appetizer, and though I might see several items on both the primi menu and the secondi menu, I know there is no way, I can eat from both sections. I’m forced to choose only one additional item, and leave so many things on the menu untasted. The way Enrico serves the meal, you get three precious tastes for your appetizer, and a perfectly portioned size of pasta, which leaves you room for a small secondo and a hankering for the dessert you know is coming. Each night, I tasted six different things! I was very satisfied, but never unpleasantly stuffed. And the wines…did I tell you about the wines?! (I guess I already did….I hope you were listening.)

Locanda la Pieve is a lesson in service and hospitality, and a wonderful base from which to explore the many wonders of the area. Semproniano is surrounded by Etruscan ruins, wineries, and charming small villages, all aching to be explored (and fodder for another blog post). I would love to return with clients in tow. I have to eat here again in my lifetime! Join me won’t you, as we explore Maremma together; the sights, the colors, the history, the food and wine. Drop me a line at: irene@bellagiornatatours.com and let’s start planning your next vacation into a fascinating and less-explored area of Tuscany.

And speaking of drinking…..after the abbey, our next stop was a wonderful winery in the Tuscan countryside.  Two very exciting things happened here, which were new experiences for everyone in the group….including me. One; I got to barrel taste Brunello! I had never experienced barrel tasting before. The cellar master, Agnes, used her special equipment to extract aging Brunello for us to taste. What a treat! And Two; we got to see where corks come from! I knew corks came from the natural bark of a cork tree, but I had never really envisioned how that actually happened. Most corks come from Sardegna or Portugal, and we got to see a sample of where they come from. Maybe I should organize a trip to Sardegna to see an actual cork production facility…..what do you think?

As I said, today was all about Food, Wine and Romance. What a great day! What’s in store for tomorrow? Food, Wine and Birthdays! This group loves a party!

Note: This blog post is being written while I am in Italy with a wonderful tour group of seven people. I’m writing behind schedule because I’m having too much fun with my group to stop and write every day. So, here, I play catch up……

What would a journey to Italy be without a few days in Rome? If you've never been to Italy before, then trips to see the top two sights are a must-do. Our group took in two half day walking tours (on two different days) of the Coliseum/Roman Forum and the Vatican Museum/Sistine Chapel/St. Peter’s with a wonderful licensed guide. Stuart made history come alive for us; telling us stories of the past while pointing out the remains in the present.

Here are a few more miscellaneous shots from our first couple of days spent in Rome:

And we also managed to fit in a trip to a great local food market! This photo (on the right) was taken at a stall where locals can fill up their own containers, or buy empty 1 liter containers for their "house"wine. The group decided to give it a try and bought a liter to take back to their hotel. They loved it!

What better way to end evenings in Rome than to stroll the streets, basking in the golden glow of ancient monuments. Our time in Rome is over, but this is just the beginning really. Tomorrow, we head out into the countryside, going north into lower Tuscany. More adventures, food, and wine await us!

I’ve recently had a most fabulous visit at Casamonti Farm located in the heart of Chianti Country which is located in the heart of Tuscany. This is no ordinary farm. It is a combination of scientific marvel and culinary delight. “What?!” you ask. “That doesn’t sound very tasty.” Oh, but it is. Let me explain…..

About 20 years ago, the world was about to lose a breed of pig called Cinta Senese to extinction. They are a fascinating animal to look at. Cinta means “belt” in Italian and you can see they have an interesting pinkish color to resemble a belt around their upper mid-section while the rest of them is black. They also have longer legs than the normal pig, bigger and flappier ears for eye protection, and really sturdy and longer snouts for digging in the ground. And….they’re delicious!

Casamonti’s owner, Raymond Lamothe was one of the key people to help bring the Cinta Senese back from extinction. And now, he and his wife Anna Rita breed and raise these special pigs on their farm, Casamonti. When a pig is born, genetic testing is done to determine whether this pig should be raised for breeding purposes, or whether after two years, it will become part of the food chain. After a pig is butchered the meat is brought back to Casamonti where it becomes all kinds of delicious things. 

Cinta Senese are so special, they have received the special D.O.P. designation from the government. This stands for Denominazione di Origine Protetta or Protected Designation of Origin. Products labelled D.O.P. give you the guarantee that this product has been made locally using traditional methods by artisanal producers. Other food products to receive D.O.P. labeling are items like Parmegiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar, and certain olive oils among others.

So, what does all this mean to you, and me, the consumers who might make a visit to Casamonti? It means you will taste some of the best cured meats you have ever had in your life. A visit to Casamonti means a stroll with the elegant and charming Anna Rita; a woman who is passionate about her cooking, the products made on the farm, and making sure her guests have a wonderful visit. It means you’re going to have a darn good time. 

My Casamonti Lunch:

Join me won’t you, on a Tuscan adventure? We’ll tour the curing rooms to see the cured meats drying, and then return to their picturesque terrace to sample them. Their capocollo is going to make your head spin. I promise. We can also taste their fabulous wines and olive oils, all produced from their grapes and olives….or stay for lunch….or have a cooking lesson. You decide; it’s your adventure. Drop me a line at: irene@bellagiornatatours.com and let’s start planning your trip to Italy and to Casamonti Farm.

My second day in Rome begins exactly how it should....exactly how I had hoped it would....with a wonderful cappuccino, a beautiful cornetto, and the company of a great friend. Though I had a million things to tick off of my "to-do" list, there is no more civilized way to start the day than to welcome it the Italian way. And so rather than stand at the bar for a knock-it-back espresso, we took to a table to start the day with sips, munches, and conversation. Ahh......

Next stop, the fabulous Trionfale Market. Every time I'm in Rome I love to stop in here, not only to make purchases.....which I did, but just to soak up the local flavor. I mean that quite literally as I had samples of porchetta, olives, wine cookies and mozzarella cheese while shopping! Speaking of mozzarella cheese....the hubster will love these photos. I couldn't bring home these fascinatingly shaped cheeses, so he'll have to settle for the giant package of wine cookies I bought for him instead.

Though my lunch photos didn't turn out, my dinner photos did. This evening Rome was hit with an amazing thunderstorm. The rain was torrential, and lightning strikes and thunder abounded. It was the kind of rainstorm for which waterproof clothing was invented....and for which, it doesn't work. And to top it off, I was hungry. I was hungry at the peak, most rainy, lightning-ish, thunder-y part of the storm. Go figure. I ventured forth, down the slippery Spanish Steps, slogging my way to the pizza-by-the-slice place I meant to go to yesterday. Odd, hardly anyone else in the city was out at all. The shop was nearly empty and they were eager to tell me about all the different kinds of pizza available this evening. I chose two types: one with truffles and porcini mushrooms (so decadent!) and the other with artichokes (love them!). Torrential rain, crackling thunder, lightning spikes, shoes soaked. Worth it!!

We can spend a lot of time talking about all the variables that go into the making of a good glass of wine. Does it have more to do with a good vintage year or with the person making the wine? Does it have more to do with which side of the hill the grapes grew on, or how much water they received….or didn’t receive? What if the barrels were made from different kinds of oak? What if the wine had aged longer?

There are so many things that can affect the flavor of the wine. But to me, there is something else that is important to the taste as well. It’s much more subjective and much more emotional. It is the memory of where I had it for the first time. I love thinking back……. “Remember when we had that Sagrantino in Todi? We were eating those crostini with melted gorgonzola and honey and that wine was perfection, wasn’t it?” Or, “Remember when we were in that restaurant in Montefalco, and that guy kept bringing us all this great stuff we hadn’t ordered and telling us it was ‘on the house’? And then he poured us that huge glass of passito? It was so delicious, we bought a bottle to take home, remember?”

I have been lucky enough to have had some incredible winery experiences in Italy. I’ve seen the amazing diversity of Italy’s wineries; from small, rustic operations to architectural beauties to technological wonders. They have all been family-run, with most still having multi-generations living on or near the winery. I’ve tasted some truly beautiful wines, poured by people who are passionate about their product. 

On many occasions, my “first time” with a wine has been at the winery. After a deep whiff, I take a sip, let it roll around in my mouth, swallow, savor the after taste, and break into a smile. My eye meets that of the winemaker, and he breaks into a smile as well. He doesn’t have to tell me all about how he grew the grapes, where he grew the grapes, when he harvested the grapes, he just has to know that I loved his wine. In the end, it makes us both happy. 

Join me, won’t you…..on an Italian wine trail? Let’s meander the rolling hills of Tuscany or the hearty Umbrian countryside. Let me take you through lesser known areas like Lazio and Campania so you can discover something new and wonderful. Every, and I do mean every region of Italy has great wines, and most of them are not sampled outside of the country. You will find wines to fall in love with, and you won’t care how they were made, when you meet the eye of the winemaker.


Drop me a line at:

mailto:irene@bellagiornatatours.com

Let's start planning your next wine experience!

I’m beginning to think about what to pack, which means a trip is fast approaching. I’ll be in Italy April 14-23 researching new itineraries, meeting lots of new connections, and checking in on old haunts to be sure these places are still as wonderful as I initially found them.

I start with a couple of days in Rome. I have a few new faces I’m scheduled to meet there, transportation routes and logistics to check for an upcoming tour, several new restaurants to try and of course, time set aside to visit with old friends. I will have a cooking day with my old kitchen cohorts which will be incredibly fun. Hopefully, by the end of this trip, I’ll finally get a handle on making gnocchi.

After Rome, I head off to Naples for a couple of nights. There, I’m very excited to experience a wine tour and a scenic tour as well as meet new guides, hoping to find new colleagues for future tour groups. I’m really looking forward to the opportunity to sample lots of the wines of Campania, and to be able to report back on the best ones.

I end my trip with a day or two in Umbria, meeting with winery folks, ceramics makers, artisanal food producers, drivers and guides; always trying to add new colleagues to my ever-growing list of great people to work with.

Friends think I’m on a boondoggle vacation; flitting around Italy, eating and drinking my way through ten days of pleasure. It’s not exactly like that actually. My days are filled with appointments, and I spend a lot of time rushing from here to there. Yes, I eat well, and I drink well. Please. I’m in Italy and I will take full advantage of great food and wine opportunities. I am not stupid. But foremost on my agenda are connections, people connections.

My clients work hard for their vacation dollars, and then they trust me with their time and money. I do not want to disappoint. I want to have lined up a string of great places to see, restaurants to eat in, food producers to meet and wineries to taste in. Then there are the bits the clients don’t really “see”. I need to be sure the hotels I choose are the right ones; clean and with great service, the drivers safe and courteous, the guides knowledgeable and entertaining. A lot goes into making someone’s dream vacation a dream come true.

So stay tuned for future blog posts from Italy, where yes, I will be eating and drinking my way through ten days of pleasure. But, more importantly, I’ll be hoping to meet a lot of great people along the way.

Italy, here I come!

People often ask me why I am so enamored with taking people to Umbria when most tourists want to go to Tuscany. Maybe it is because I am so comfortable there. While living in Rome, Umbria was the closest place to get away to for the weekend. Its hill towns are so incredibly charming. Its food is so delicious. Its lesser known wines are incredible. Every area of Italy believes (and rightly so) that their specialty foods and their local wines are the best, but I fell in love with Umbria’s first and they will always hold a special place in my heart. 

Umbria is chock-full of great places to visit, but on this particular trip most of my time was spent on the eastern side with the bulk of my time in Spello, the area around Bevagna and Trevi. 

Spello is a little gem of a hill town. For some reason, it seems to have more than its fair share of great restaurants. Poor me. It’s so hard to make a decision on where to eat; they are all so good. And for such a small town, it seems to have an incredible number of great shops as well. Start at the top at the store that sells all things made from olive wood, and work your way down the hill, through ceramics, linens, and fabulous food products. Below, you will see some of the many great dishes I have been lucky enough to partake of in Spello. On the left is a delicious plate of mixed bruschette. In the middle is a fabulous molded appetizer filled with potatoes and porcini mushrooms and topped with a sauce made with cheese and truffles. And on the right is a wonderful mixed grill plate, cooked right in front of me in the open fireplace. Fabulous! PS: These three dishes are from three different restaurants.

Bevagna and its surrounding countryside is filled with wine opportunities. I was able to fit in two wonderful wine tastings on this trip; one at a place I’ve been to sooooo many times before (and love going back to), and another at a winery that was new to me though I’ve drunk their fabulous wine sooooo many times before. Ahh….Sagrantino and Montefalco Rosso; two of my favorite wines on earth, along with passito, the sweet dessert wine made from sagrantino grapes. Sigh. The third photo below, is a serving of homemade cookies with a glass of passito at a restaurant in Spello.

On this trip, I also stumbled across a couple of new and wonderful places to return to. One is a beyond-fabulous mill/bakery which I will be writing more about in a future blog post. Another is a factory outlet for cashmere clothing. I now own a green cashmere cape. Yes. It’s green. And it’s a cape!

My last bit of time in Umbria was spent in wonderful Trevi. I’ve found a “new” (newly refurbished) hotel for my future clients to stay in that is simply so charming; I can’t wait to bring people there. The people who run the hotel are incredibly nice; I know my travelers will be so happy there. Trevi is fast becoming a great food destination and hosts an abundance of food related festivals. The countryside is filled to the brim with olive oil trees, making it one of the “olive oil capitals” of Italy. I am so excited to return.

My research trip has come to a close. Where did the time go? With a final night in Rome, my trip will be over. As usual, I either start, or in this case end my trip to Italy at my favorite pizzeria in Rome.  I share a fiori di zucca (zucchini flower) pizza with an old friend and top it off with an incredible gelato at a nearby gelateria. The pizza from this place never fails to make me swoon. I have told the owner in the past, "When I eat pizza here.....I know I am truly in Rome." Do you see the little green flecks in the gelato? They are pieces of real, fresh mint leaves, making this THE best mint chocolate chip gelato I have ever had!

Italy. It has stolen my heart.....yet again. And each return trip only further strengthens my desire to share my favorite spots with first-time travelers. Return with me, won’t you? Let’s eat, drink and sightsee our way through Rome and the countryside together. Don’t be surprised if Italy steals your heart as well. Drop me a line at:mailto:irene@bellagiornatatours.com

Day four had me picking up my rental car to begin my journey away from Rome. I made my way to Zagarolo, a charming little town only a half hour or so south of Rome where a friend of mine lives. I must say, I was enjoying every minute of driving a stick shift again :)

We started the day together at a winery (why not?). I was in search of cesanese wine, made from local Lazio grapes and a recent discovery for me, that I was eager to try more of. We arrived at Fedrici winery at 12:45 asking if we could taste a few wines. “Certo!” (Of course!), was the reply. We were led to the tasting room where the gentleman began to pull new bottles off the shelf.  “Wait!” I exclaimed. “Don’t you have bottles already open? Are you opening new bottles of everything just for us?” He glanced at his watch, and explained they hadn't had anyone in for wine tasting yet today, but he was happy to open bottles for us.  He glanced at his watch again. “In fact”, he said, “why don’t you just take these three bottles home with you and taste them there. You can always come back if you like it.” My friend and I glanced at each other. Was he offering us three free bottles of wine? When we offered to pay for the wine, he glanced at his watch again. “No, no. Please. Just take the wine, really. I’m happy to offer it to you. Come back if you want more.” And off he went, out the door, into his car, down the driveway…..and home to lunch; where I’m sure his wife was waiting with a hot dish of pasta…..much more important than wine sales. Only in Italy!

Our goal for the afternoon was to visit the monastery at Subiaco, a place I’d always wanted to go to, but somehow never managed to get to. First however, like the gentleman from the winery, we needed lunch. As we wound our way up the mountain to the monastery, we pulled off at a roadside restaurant. Our pasta portions with porcini mushrooms and another with meat ragu sauce were very filling. The amazing part of it though was the price. Have a look at the check. Our ¼ liter of house wine (cesanese at a cost of .80) was cheaper than our bottle of water (2.00). Only in Italy! 

And finally, the true highlight of the day;  the monastery at Subiaco. The drive there is filled with lots of twists and turns as we navigate our way higher and higher up Mount Talèo. Upon arrival, one must pass through the gate.........

........and stroll the path of trees growing surreally from the rocks. 

At the end of the path is a set of winding stone steps.........

.......and when you come to the top, you finally get your first phenomenal view of the monastery built into the side of the mountain. 

And what a view it is….breathtaking, truly.

The interior of the monastery is nearly indescribable. It is a rabbit warren of rooms, each connected at odd angles by series of steps. The frescoes are beyond amazing. The colors, scenes, and stories told are simply incredible. Large sections of the mountainside create interior walls in some areas. To think, St. Benedict lived as a hermit for three years in the “Sacro Speco” or Sacred Cave which visitors are now allowed to enter. 

Our trip to the monastery has been not only the highlight of my day, but in the end, a highlight of my entire trip. I am moved to speechlessness by the beauty and serenity of this place high up on the mountainside. A handful of white-robed Benedictine monks still reside here, and I think, maybe this wouldn’t be such a bad place to live. Only in Italy.