A Special Dinner in Siena-Girogustando

This past October, I was lucky enough to stumble upon and attend a wonderful special event dinner in Siena. Girogustando basically means "tasting tour", and it is a very apt description. Local restaurants, invite chefs from other regions of Italy to cook a quattro mani or "with four hands". If you think having a dinner prepared by a great chef is wonderful, just think what it is like with two great chefs!

I already had plans for my tour group to have a wine tasting at Uccelliera winery, owned by Andrea Cortonesi. I love his wines, and knew my clients would enjoy them as well. When his cellarmaster, Agnes told me the winery also had a restaurant in the town of Siena itself, I knew I had to pay a visit.

Upon contacting Enoristorante Casato for a reservation, I was told, yes, there was room for me on the requested night, but that it was a special dinner with a set menu, and set price. Chef Cornelio told me all about Girogustando, and I realized I was one lucky girl to have called when I did. I was going to be in for a real treat!

Once there, I was in for three surprises: 
One, when I knew two chefs would be collaborating, I assumed I would get one dish which the two of them had joined minds and hands on. But this was not to be the case. There were two appetizers; one prepared by each chef. There were two first courses, followed by two second courses.....you get my drift. Yes, I had to eat two desserts! 
Two, as luck would have it, the chef who had been invited to join Chef Cornelio in the kitchen was from the region of Lazio; one of the areas I am most familiar with, and offer tours to. The pairing of wines meant I would have the opportunity to drink not only a lovely Brunello from Andrea Cortonesi, but also a wonderful Cesanese del Piglio.
And Third, Girogustando is more than just food as it turns out. It is not only about two chefs in the kitchen, it is about the meeting of culture and cuisine. On hand, to give little talks between the courses were an author and a painter. To be honest, I had a hard time catching it all with the language barrier, especially from the author. But the painter had his work on display that night, and it was quite lovely.

So, it begins.....We start with the appetizer on the left from the Lazio's Chef Oliviero. It's a skewer of cheese and pear wrapped in pancetta on a bed of fried, grated pumpkin with a sauce reduced from Cesanese wine. On the right, is the appetizer from Siena's Chef Cornelio. It's a tartare of Chianina beef with crunchy bits on top. Whew. (And there's so much more to go.)

I'm already feeling a bit full, so it's nice to have a few moments respite while the author gets a little interview from a local personality. Okay, here comes the first courses......

On the left, from Lazio are gnocchetto lungo or long gnocchi (but not potato based) with a ragu made from buffalo meat, and a pesto from wild chicory. The second pasta, on the right, is pici, a typical thick Tuscan pasta with a housemade hare sauce. I suppose the portions are a little smaller than usual, but it is still TWO portions of pasta. Okay, now I am officially full, so thank goodness we get to hear from the artist for a bit, before we move on to the second courses......

On the left, from Chef Oliviero is a lamb dish with cauliflower stewed in red wine and roasted potatoes. And on the right, from Chef Cornelio is a filet of Cinta Senese pork with porcini mushrooms. Seriously? I'm expected to eat both of these? Well, sometimes in the name of journalism, and business, one must make sacrifices. And....it's all so delicious. I don't really want to eat any more, but on the other hand, I can hardly stop myself.

I know dessert is coming, and it's hard to stifle my groaning. We get a little longer break here so we can have yet more wine, and a chance to get a closer look at the artwork.

Painting by Massimo Stecchi

Dessert arrives, and I have a moment of panic until I realize both desserts have arrived on a single plate to finish the meal. Thank goodness a second plate of dessert is not coming. 

On the left from La Trattoria Consolare in Ferentino, Lazio is a tart made with ricotta cheese and chocolate with a pear caramel. And on the right from Il Casato Enoristorante, Siena is a layered pastry and cream dessert with white chocolate.

This is seriously the most full I've felt in a long time, and honestly, it takes away from the joy of the meal a little bit for me. However, having said that, the meal was absolutely stupendous.

I think both chefs did a fantastic job. The appetizers were so delicious, and I loved how in both of them, there was a great juxtaposition between sweet and savory, and crunchy and creamy textures. The sauces on both first courses were divine and neither tasted gamey at all.  The texture of both pastas was perfection. The meats of the second courses were both so tender. I don't get to eat lamb or Cinta Senese pork very often, so it was a real treat to get both in one meal!

Chef Cornelio center, Chef Oliviero on the right.

I loved how the food was not only local to the regions, but also seasonal. The use of pears, pumpkin and porcini mushrooms was perfect for the time of year. Serving Cinta Senese pork and Chianina from Siena and buffalo meat from Lazio made perfect sense. And it was such a treat to have the meal paired with two regional wines. Cesanese wine can be so good, but in my opinion, it can also be hit or miss. It's a rising star, and this version of Cesanese del Piglio superiore from Perinelli was really delicious, especially for the pasta courses. Come time for the second courses, the Brunello from Andrea Cortonesi really shone bright; a perfect pairing.

This really was a meal made in heaven, and I was so lucky to be able to be a part of it. If you are ever in the regions of Lazio or Tuscany, I highly recommend you partake in a meal prepared by Chef Cornelio and/or Chef Oliviero. Or better yet, drop me an email. I'll organize a tour for you and be sure to include these restaurants as stops on our itinerary! Email me at: irene@bellagiornatatours.com