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Life on an Italian Beach

7/4/2013

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Ah, summertime….time for fun in the sun, time to head to the beach. If you are in Italy, watch out! You might get run over trying to get there. Life on an Italian beach is distinctly different from beach time in the U.S. in many ways:
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For one thing, Italians tend to head to the beach in droves during the summer. Sun worshipers all seem to get vacation at the same time, and peak summer months mean peak crowds at popular beach destinations. When I lived there, I enjoyed quiet beach time by going in late May through the first week of July and again in early September; times when the weather was still fantastic, but the crowds significantly thinner. When the rest of Italy headed to the beach for the bulk of July and August, I would head to the hill towns of Umbria for cool breezes and cool evenings.

Another difference is that many Italian families stay at the beach for long periods of time….as in the whole summer. As long as the kids are on break from school, many Italian moms rent summer apartments along the beaches for extended stays. Dad comes and joins the family on weekends and for the couple of weeks he can get off for vacation.  

One of the joys of beach life in Italy is not only can you rent a beach apartment; you can actually rent part of the beach! Families reserve and pay in advance for the requested number of chaise lounge chairs and beach umbrellas in a specific “row” of sand. The beach is sectioned off into parcels, each managed by different (usually family) businesses. Each beach manager has different colored umbrellas and offers an array of services. When you pay for your chaise lounger and umbrella, you also get to use that particular beach parcel’s restroom, changing room, outdoor shower and have access to their restaurant/bar.

When you reserve a beach spot, it’s yours for the day. If you want to go to a nearby restaurant for lunch, or go back to your apartment and cool off for a while, no problem. You can leave your towels and other non-valuables, as the beach manager knows this spot is reserved for you, and will not allow anyone else to take it.  I have been to beaches which appear nearly empty, but there are no spaces available.  It’s because maybe its lunch time, and everyone has gone off to eat, but the beach spots still belong to them.  In fact, some families rent these beach spaces for the whole summer, ensuring they will always have a spot even if there are days they don’t go to the beach at all.
Beach shopping.  Who knew there was such a thing?  But yes, in Italy the shopping comes to you…..on the beach!  What can you buy?  All manner of items and services.  For starters, you can get a nice back or leg massage. Soon, someone pushing a cart with an incredible array of beach toys will come ambling along.  Before long, someone else will stop by, selling beach towels and various swimsuit cover-ups in case you've forgotten yours or just want a new look.  Then of course someone wants you to buy sunglasses.  Or how about some pretty jewelry?  And we are talking about Italy, so there is food for sale as well.  Really refreshing things like watermelon slices or freshly cracked coconut meat. If you see a man carrying a bucket and yelling “cocomero!” grab some coins and run after him!
And speaking of food……as I mentioned earlier, each parcel of beach has its own bar/restaurant. I have had some incredible meals at these places.  There’s one in particular I love on the Amalfi Coast. When the sun has become too much to bear, dart over the hot sand, rinse your feet in the outdoor shower, and have a seat in the open-air restaurant.  There’s always amazing melon with prosciutto which is so refreshing.  If you’re lucky, mama’s in the back today pulling her delicious eggplant parmesan out of the oven.  It. Is. So. Good. Or maybe you’d like some incredibly fresh fish, or a seafood salad.  Everything is served on beautiful ceramic plates….on the beach!  The house wine is delicious (and comes in an equally charming ceramic carafe) and the people are so, so nice. 

As I said, these are mostly family affairs. Dad’s over in the corner playing cards with his buddies.  Mama’s in the kitchen. Two brothers are serving food and drink. One of their sons is putting umbrellas up and down and setting chairs out on the sand.  And every one of them has a smile on their face. They love their jobs. Please. We’re on the Amalfi Coast. The sun is shining. The water is sparkling. Tan bodies flip like fish in a frying pan. Smell ripe melons, salt air and sunscreen. There is fabulous food and wine on the table. And all around you happy people are speaking Italian. What’s not to love?

Travel with me and Bella Giornata Tours. Let’s experience a sparkling day on the beach somewhere along the Amalfi Coast.  Join me in 2014.  You set the dates. Early summer and early fall are best.  Let's go alla spiaggia!

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