​I was fortunate enough to spend a day recently with Arianna Cini and her partner Alessio Di Genova of Km Zero Tours. They have worked long and hard to find just the right artisanal food producers to partner with, who not only create delicious products, but are passionate about how they are produced. And lucky for me, they love to talk about their work.

The Pruneti family has 26,000 trees. Sounds like a lot doesn’t it? And I’m sure it seems like a lot to the 70-80 seasonal workers who are hired to manually pick the trees. But for all those olives picked, do you know how much becomes extra-virgin, cold-pressed olive oil? 10-15%. That’s right…that’s all. So what becomes of the rest of it? It’s waste. The remaining 85-90% is a big mushy mess of broken pits, skins and smashed olive meat.

Back in the day, olive growers used to put this mash back in the field to “feed” the soil. Today’s growers know this practice creates too much acidity in the soil and is in fact not the best use of the mash. So, what do they do with it? Unfortunately, most olive oil producers send the mash to industrial refineries. Here, it is pressed again, using heat for maximum extraction. This second pressing is pretty devoid of all the known healthy properties of first-pressed, cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil. This second-pressed oil is often combined with other non-olive oils, and even falsely colored to mimic the beautiful color of fresh oil. Remember my earlier comments about there being no control during production? 

So what’s to be done about the production of fake olive oil? Emanuele has a solution for that as well, and it starts with us…the consumer. We need to read labels and push for stricter labeling. We need to expect to pay more for a quality product. A quality olive oil should have an expiration date because the sooner you use it after the olives were harvested, the better it is. Unfiltered oil may seem rustically chic, but the truth is, unfiltered oil spoils more quickly due to the remaining solid matter being quicker to go rancid. The bottle should say where the olives came from; not just what country, but what farm. Emanuele is certainly not opposed to olive oils from other countries, but the origin of the olives should be clearly stated on the label.

And here’s an idea: You get what you pay for. Restaurants can’t afford to put high quality olive oil on the table when patrons are coming along, pouring it out onto a plate and mopping it up with their free bread. For a restaurant to offer an amazing olive oil, the bread with an olive oil dip should be a paid appetizer item. Only then, and until regulations are in place during the production process will we be assured of consistently getting a quality olive oil.
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Until then, how does Emanuele handle receiving mediocre olive oil when he’s dining out at a restaurant? He carries a small bottle of Pruneti olive oil in his back pocket. Maybe we should all do the same.

​I have always wondered how certain towns get featured in guidebooks. As I’ve traveled the length of Italy, I have stopped in towns I am “supposed” to stop in and found most of them charming. But at the same time, I’ve stopped in so many towns that are simply not featured in the guidebooks and found most of them to be equally charming. The problem with going to the featured towns is that everyone else is going there too. Recently, in the heart of Maremma, the less-discovered southwestern portion of Tuscany, I stumbled upon a hidden gem. Welcome to Semproniano….a simple and charming town, which holds a special surprise.

My two-night stay at the seemingly unassuming Locanda la Pieve turned into one of my best hotel stays ever. Was it a five-star hotel? No. Was I served breakfast in bed, or drinks by the pool? No. In fact, there is no pool. What there is instead is the charming, gracious and wonderful hospitality of Angela and Enrico Cipolletta.

city center. Eight years ago, they decided to leave the hustle and bustle of Rome and the corporate world behind, and move out into the country where they could create a home for themselves, and a home for their guests.

​The two of them; the entire “staff” of the hotel do it all. Yet, they manage to do it with the utmost of grace, charm, humor and friendliness. They set their guests instantly at ease and welcome you into their “slow-living” life. Each morning there is a beautiful breakfast comprised of freshly baked breakfast cake among other things. During my stay, I was treated to a lemon-poppyseed bread on one day and a prune galette on the next, courtesy of Angela. In addition there are cereals, yogurt, croissants, bread, fresh fruit and always fresh ricotta served with homemade jams (again courtesy of Angela) and local honey. Coffees and teas of your choice are freshly served to you. 

​Lest you think Angela does all the work, let’s discuss what Enrico does. While Angela is queen of desserts from the kitchen, Enrico cooks everything else. Dinner is served each night and is only available to guests of the hotel. I asked them why this was their policy….wouldn’t they make more money opening up to the public every night? Enrico agreed this would be true, but it was simply not their philosophy. They don’t want to offer an endless array of plates to an endless line of diners every night. 

​Enrico concentrates on cooking just what he needs to cook for each night’s number of guests. He only serves what is in season, and what can be purchased locally. There is no menu, and a great part of the fun is sitting at your table wondering what is going to arrive next, and how it could possibly top the last plate Angela brought out from the kitchen. I felt as though I was “in” on a secret dining experience!

One of the things I loved most about the meal was the portions. In a “normal” restaurant, I might start with an appetizer, and though I might see several items on both the primi menu and the secondi menu, I know there is no way, I can eat from both sections. I’m forced to choose only one additional item, and leave so many things on the menu untasted. The way Enrico serves the meal, you get three precious tastes for your appetizer, and a perfectly portioned size of pasta, which leaves you room for a small secondo and a hankering for the dessert you know is coming. Each night, I tasted six different things! I was very satisfied, but never unpleasantly stuffed. And the wines…did I tell you about the wines?! (I guess I already did….I hope you were listening.)

Locanda la Pieve is a lesson in service and hospitality, and a wonderful base from which to explore the many wonders of the area. Semproniano is surrounded by Etruscan ruins, wineries, and charming small villages, all aching to be explored (and fodder for another blog post). I would love to return with clients in tow. I have to eat here again in my lifetime! Join me won’t you, as we explore Maremma together; the sights, the colors, the history, the food and wine. Drop me a line at: irene@bellagiornatatours.com and let’s start planning your next vacation into a fascinating and less-explored area of Tuscany.

And speaking of drinking…..after the abbey, our next stop was a wonderful winery in the Tuscan countryside.  Two very exciting things happened here, which were new experiences for everyone in the group….including me. One; I got to barrel taste Brunello! I had never experienced barrel tasting before. The cellar master, Agnes, used her special equipment to extract aging Brunello for us to taste. What a treat! And Two; we got to see where corks come from! I knew corks came from the natural bark of a cork tree, but I had never really envisioned how that actually happened. Most corks come from Sardegna or Portugal, and we got to see a sample of where they come from. Maybe I should organize a trip to Sardegna to see an actual cork production facility…..what do you think?

As I said, today was all about Food, Wine and Romance. What a great day! What’s in store for tomorrow? Food, Wine and Birthdays! This group loves a party!

I’ve recently had a most fabulous visit at Casamonti Farm located in the heart of Chianti Country which is located in the heart of Tuscany. This is no ordinary farm. It is a combination of scientific marvel and culinary delight. “What?!” you ask. “That doesn’t sound very tasty.” Oh, but it is. Let me explain…..

About 20 years ago, the world was about to lose a breed of pig called Cinta Senese to extinction. They are a fascinating animal to look at. Cinta means “belt” in Italian and you can see they have an interesting pinkish color to resemble a belt around their upper mid-section while the rest of them is black. They also have longer legs than the normal pig, bigger and flappier ears for eye protection, and really sturdy and longer snouts for digging in the ground. And….they’re delicious!

Casamonti’s owner, Raymond Lamothe was one of the key people to help bring the Cinta Senese back from extinction. And now, he and his wife Anna Rita breed and raise these special pigs on their farm, Casamonti. When a pig is born, genetic testing is done to determine whether this pig should be raised for breeding purposes, or whether after two years, it will become part of the food chain. After a pig is butchered the meat is brought back to Casamonti where it becomes all kinds of delicious things. 

Cinta Senese are so special, they have received the special D.O.P. designation from the government. This stands for Denominazione di Origine Protetta or Protected Designation of Origin. Products labelled D.O.P. give you the guarantee that this product has been made locally using traditional methods by artisanal producers. Other food products to receive D.O.P. labeling are items like Parmegiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar, and certain olive oils among others.

So, what does all this mean to you, and me, the consumers who might make a visit to Casamonti? It means you will taste some of the best cured meats you have ever had in your life. A visit to Casamonti means a stroll with the elegant and charming Anna Rita; a woman who is passionate about her cooking, the products made on the farm, and making sure her guests have a wonderful visit. It means you’re going to have a darn good time. 

My Casamonti Lunch:

Join me won’t you, on a Tuscan adventure? We’ll tour the curing rooms to see the cured meats drying, and then return to their picturesque terrace to sample them. Their capocollo is going to make your head spin. I promise. We can also taste their fabulous wines and olive oils, all produced from their grapes and olives….or stay for lunch….or have a cooking lesson. You decide; it’s your adventure. Drop me a line at: irene@bellagiornatatours.com and let’s start planning your trip to Italy and to Casamonti Farm.

We can spend a lot of time talking about all the variables that go into the making of a good glass of wine. Does it have more to do with a good vintage year or with the person making the wine? Does it have more to do with which side of the hill the grapes grew on, or how much water they received….or didn’t receive? What if the barrels were made from different kinds of oak? What if the wine had aged longer?

There are so many things that can affect the flavor of the wine. But to me, there is something else that is important to the taste as well. It’s much more subjective and much more emotional. It is the memory of where I had it for the first time. I love thinking back……. “Remember when we had that Sagrantino in Todi? We were eating those crostini with melted gorgonzola and honey and that wine was perfection, wasn’t it?” Or, “Remember when we were in that restaurant in Montefalco, and that guy kept bringing us all this great stuff we hadn’t ordered and telling us it was ‘on the house’? And then he poured us that huge glass of passito? It was so delicious, we bought a bottle to take home, remember?”

I have been lucky enough to have had some incredible winery experiences in Italy. I’ve seen the amazing diversity of Italy’s wineries; from small, rustic operations to architectural beauties to technological wonders. They have all been family-run, with most still having multi-generations living on or near the winery. I’ve tasted some truly beautiful wines, poured by people who are passionate about their product. 

On many occasions, my “first time” with a wine has been at the winery. After a deep whiff, I take a sip, let it roll around in my mouth, swallow, savor the after taste, and break into a smile. My eye meets that of the winemaker, and he breaks into a smile as well. He doesn’t have to tell me all about how he grew the grapes, where he grew the grapes, when he harvested the grapes, he just has to know that I loved his wine. In the end, it makes us both happy. 

Join me, won’t you…..on an Italian wine trail? Let’s meander the rolling hills of Tuscany or the hearty Umbrian countryside. Let me take you through lesser known areas like Lazio and Campania so you can discover something new and wonderful. Every, and I do mean every region of Italy has great wines, and most of them are not sampled outside of the country. You will find wines to fall in love with, and you won’t care how they were made, when you meet the eye of the winemaker.


Drop me a line at:

mailto:irene@bellagiornatatours.com

Let's start planning your next wine experience!

My trip to research new itineraries for my clients continues into southern Tuscany. Pienza will be my home base for the next three nights as I return to favorite haunts and explore new discoveries the area has to offer. 

Between Rome and Pienza, there is a lot to see. My first stop was at the Parco dei Mostri or Monster Park in Bomarzo. This fascinating little side trip, seemingly in the middle of nowhere is only an hour north of Rome, and makes for a great spot to stop and stretch your legs. The “garden” is a shady stroll through a “sacro bosco” or Sacred Woods. Around every turn of the path, appear gigantic statues and sculptures carved from the local stones. These mythological and fanciful creations are amazing in proportion and number. The garden was created in the 1500’s, fell into disrepair and the monsters lay in wait, hiding under overgrown greenery for 300 years. It was rediscovered in the 1930’s and developed into a park in the 1950’s. Today, an entry fee ensures its upkeep. It is an interesting and surreal stop.

Next stop: Bagnoregio, a city like no other. Bagnoregio has been called a dying town, but really it is far from that. It is uniquely situated on a rocky promontory which can only be reached by footbridge. (Be prepared for an uphill trek.) The city is now charging an entry fee, as they should, to help pay for the work (such as retaining walls) to keep this town alive. And alive, it is. Though it is very small, on this beautiful, cool fall day, several eateries were operating and filled with lunch time patrons. We in fact, had a really enjoyable lunch with sausages and veg cooked over the open fireplace, along with a mixed bruschetta platter to start. So delicious. After lunch, a stroll was in order. It doesn't take long to stroll the short side streets and take in the beautiful views to be had from nearly every dead-end street, and in a town like this, yes, they are all dead-end streets. 

Pienza is one of my favorite places in all of Tuscany. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site because of the way the city was designed back in the mid 1400’s. The hotel I love to stay at has windows which open to a stunning panoramic view of the Val d’Orcia. When I wake up here each morning, the first thing I do is throw the windows open and lean out the windowsill. The view is the definition of Tuscan countryside. 

Small, and completely walkable, Pienza’s tiny side streets are charming and filled with eateries and great shopping. Pienza is Cheese Central; home to Pecorino, one of the most delicious and essential of Italian cheeses. This is also Honeyland, with so many varieties to choose from, it makes my head buzz. (Get it? Buzz….bees….honey?) Pienza is also located between Montalcino and Montepulciano, two of the best known towns for wine. It never ceases to amaze me in Italy; no matter how small a town is, there is never a shortage of great food and wine. What better place to stay while exploring this area of Tuscany?

Join me, won’t you….on a future trip to Italy? Let’s explore lower Tuscany together. The towns prominently listed in guidebooks are wonderful, but so are all the great places off-the-beaten-track. Let me take you there.

Yes, I mean Valentine’s Day.  Have you thought about it yet?  No?  Then it’s about time you did.  If you don’t know what to get her, lucky for you, I do.  What could be more romantic than a trip to Italy for ten days?  She will never forget her completely stress-free vacation with Bella Giornata Tours.  Oh, the sights, the sounds, the food, the wine…sigh.  She will be eternally grateful. 

A tour with Bella Giornata Tours is the perfect combination of escorted group activities and private down-time.  A portion of every day is spent together exploring all the wonders Italy has to offer, while another portion of the day is set aside for you to explore, stroll, relax, and dine on your own. Our small group tours offer our clients very individualized attention and attention to detail.  No gigantic buses, no long lines, no having to wear a neon colored scarf.  Our privately-chauffeured van takes us directly where we need to go and our small group size along with your tour director (me!) makes sure everything goes smoothly.

Bella Giornata offers several options for your trip-of-a-lifetime.
1)      We offer trip planning for your private unescorted trip. You let us know when you’d like to go, how long you’d like to stay and we help you plan the perfect trip. We write itineraries for sights to see, routes to take, restaurants to dine at, wineries to visit, etc. so you don’t waste a single precious minute. We can also book your hotels, make restaurant reservations and purchase advance sightseeing tickets.

2)      Sign up for one of the current escorted tour offerings. Click on the tabs for Spring and Fall, and see the tours currently booking. These are small group (six person) tours with privately chauffeured vans traveling to fantastic destinations. Read the blog with highlights of last October’s tour!

3)      Don’t see dates that work for you for the escorted tours? That’s okay; we have other dates available. Simply let us know what your plans are, and we’ll work to accommodate them. 

4)      The escorted tours aren’t going where you want to go? Where do you want to go?  Just let us know, and we’ll plan an itinerary and escort your small group on the perfect vacation.

Contact me now at irene@bellagiornatatours.com.  Valentine’s Day is fast approaching.

Before living in Italy, honey was that pale, sticky stuff that came in a plastic bear.  It was okay.  I used it in my tea when I was sick and occasionally in a recipe.  Ho hum.  But living in Italy changed my outlook on many things, and looking at honey in a whole different way was one of them.

When I had my red wine epiphany (described in a previous blog post), my crostini were covered in not only melted gorgonzola, but drizzled with honey.  What?  Honey on cheese?  New concept.  Then I went to a book club meeting and the hostess served a plate of sliced pears, yummy cheese and a small pot of honey on the side for drizzling.  She told us her mother-in-law (Italian) had given her this honey, and warned that some people might not like it as it was quite strong.  I peeked in the pot to find the honey was dark as night!  What kind of honey could this be?  I drizzled it on my cheese and fruit, took a bite, and my eyes rolled back in my head.  Yes, it was that good.  I asked her what kind it was but she couldn’t remember…something that started with a “c”.

Fast forward to a weekend trip in the Italian countryside:  Pienza is a favorite little town.  It’s in Tuscany, but on the edge enough to make it a relatively easy drive from Rome.  When you are in Pienza, you are in Cheese Land; home to wonderful Pecorino.  And since all Italians know how well honey goes with cheese, you are by default also in Honey Land.  Seriously, once you’ve arrived to the Land of Cheese and Honey, why bother driving back to Rome?  Stay overnight.  Indulge.  We did…....many times.

Charming shops line the very few available streets in this tiny hilltop town, and they are filled to overflowing with cheese and honey and other delectables.  At one particular shop, we were given a generous cheese sample topped with a drop of dark honey.  I popped it in my mouth and thought, “Is this it?  This is it!”  I asked the proprietor for the name of the honey.  “Corbezzolo,” came the reply.  Yes, it starts with a “c”!  Since then, I’ve always had a jar of corbezzolo honey in the pantry.  It’s forte (strong), sharp, sometimes nearly bitter, but always sweet.  Does that even make sense?  And it’s perfection with cheese.

Not long ago, I discovered another fabulous honey product.  It’s called Abamele and it hails from the island of Sardinia.  This small jar of deliciousness is honey cooked down with orange slices.  Also, bee pollen has been added.  Orange marmalade has always been a favorite of mine, but this dark, dense, intensely flavored version is phenomenal.  It’s almost like caramel with more than a hint of orange. The bee pollen and orange bits gives it an interesting texture and it is incredible drizzled over my homemade cheesecake.  My initial taste sample was over fresh ricotta cheese, and I had to stop myself from hogging all the samples.  The ingredient list contains three items: 95% honey, bee pollen, oranges.  Amazing.

I found Melata honey for the first time in London of all places, at a fabulous food market that I used to shop at regularly when we lived there.  When I inquired where it came from, I was told he imported it from Italy!  Since then, I’ve been able to find it on trips to Rome, and various friends there have been lovely enough to pick up jars of it for me and save it until I come visit.  It’s a wonderful all-around honey; good not only on cheese but in sweet applications as well.  It has a beautiful well-rounded flavor that is deep without being too strong (but notice how dark it is).  I can eat by the spoonful….and I do.  I’ll be right back.

Another wonderful honey product is il mieleaceto.  This little lovely bottle comes from the Modena area which is famous for its balsamic vinegar.  In fact, mieleaceto is basically balsamic vinegar cooked down with honey.  The resulting inky syrup is nearly indescribable.  It’s sweet of course, but you get that vinegar hit at the end; a truly awesome combination.  This is lovely not only on cheeses, but on steak, risotto; darn near everything.  The bottle is soooo small.  I’ve been hoarding it.  Note to self:  Next time….buy bigger.

And on my most recent trip to Rome, I discovered Miele di ‘Erba Medica.  I was at a food festival booth featuring all kinds of honey.  I was told this particular honey has anti-inflammatory properties and that one should have a spoonful “after sport”.  I play tennis.  I run.  I am…..of a certain age….where anti-inflammatory anything is beginning to sound pretty good.  I recently read an article about how wonderful honey is for curing cough; in fact, some studies show it is better than cough syrup.  I used to wake up in the middle of the night quite often with a dry throat and an irritating cough.  But, I honestly have been letting a spoonful of this honey drip down my throat before going to bed every night, and it hasn’t happened since!   I also recently read another article about a particular island in Greece, famous for the longevity of its residents.  The secret to their longevity?  When asked, their reply was a spoonful of honey every day.  Of course they were referring to a specific honey available only on their island.  But nevertheless, the way I figure it, if a spoonful of honey will relieve my aching joints, get rid of my cough and help me live longer, I’m all for it.  In fact, maybe two spoonfuls would be even better.  I’ll be right back.  
(Don't you love my honey pump?  Thanks Holly!)