Whether he is creating a large religious sculpture or a small diorama scene, the human figures begin the same way. A core of iron wire is lined with straw, and wrapped tightly with string. This “figure” can be posed as need be. Someone’s job is to make nothing but little terra cotta heads, hands and feet which are mounted on the figures. Now, we are finally ready for the Paper Mache to clothe the figures. Special paper soaked in flour glue is wrapped, pressed and formed to create the main body of the figure. After a drying process comes the painting and coloring. Voila! A very realistic human form has been created.

With four days of Rome under our belts, it is time to leave the city and make our way north to southern Tuscany. We’ll get there via a couple of interesting stops along the way. Lazio, the area surrounding Rome is filled with hidden treasures like these:

First stop is a stroll through the Sacred Woods of the Parco dei Mostri in Bomarzo to view some unique and somewhat bizarre creatures hidden around every corner. It’s a great place to stretch your legs, and have a whimsical walk in the woods.

Then it’s on to an ancient and crumbling village perched high atop its own little bluff. It is a bit of a trek to get to it; lots of uphill climbing. But that only serves to build up your appetite, and you’ll need a good appetite for all the tasty little lunch treats in store for us here.

We had some great adventures today! What's in store for tomorrow? Food, Wine.........and Romance!

Note: This blog post is being written while I am in Italy with a wonderful tour group of seven people. I’m writing behind schedule because I’m having too much fun with my group to stop and write every day. So, here, I play catch up……

What would a journey to Italy be without a few days in Rome? If you've never been to Italy before, then trips to see the top two sights are a must-do. Our group took in two half day walking tours (on two different days) of the Coliseum/Roman Forum and the Vatican Museum/Sistine Chapel/St. Peter’s with a wonderful licensed guide. Stuart made history come alive for us; telling us stories of the past while pointing out the remains in the present.

Here are a few more miscellaneous shots from our first couple of days spent in Rome:

And we also managed to fit in a trip to a great local food market! This photo (on the right) was taken at a stall where locals can fill up their own containers, or buy empty 1 liter containers for their "house"wine. The group decided to give it a try and bought a liter to take back to their hotel. They loved it!

What better way to end evenings in Rome than to stroll the streets, basking in the golden glow of ancient monuments. Our time in Rome is over, but this is just the beginning really. Tomorrow, we head out into the countryside, going north into lower Tuscany. More adventures, food, and wine await us!

Welcome to Montepulciano, a charming hill town filled to the brim with great food and wine, wonderful architecture, beautiful art, and best of all…fabulous people. This town in lower Tuscany offers a little bit of everything a visitor could want. Montepulciano is presided over by their famous clock tower which features a clown, from Naples of all places. The Pulcinella is a reminder left by a Neapolitan bishop who was banished to Montepulciano for being a philanderer. (I can think of worse places to get banished to.)

But there’s so much more to Montepulciano than the cute clock tower. This town contains several churches and palaces containing some great art. There are eye-catching side streets to stroll down (or up). This, like many hill towns I constantly forewarn clients about, is quite vertical. It is very easy to work off one’s lunch or dinner. You really have no choice but to do so….which is why eating and drinking here is so great! 

There are wonderful views from Montepulciano since it is one of the higher towns in the area.

There are many artisanal craftspeople in Montepulciano. You will find all kinds of artisans, from wrought iron forgers to mosaic makers hard at work, not to mention ceramic artists. There is a wealth of shopping to partake in from the aforementioned artists as well as all sorts of wine, food and olive oil products. (I had a wonderful visit with the mosaic man….I’ll be writing about him in a future blog.)

And last but not least….there is….wine. Ah! Take a sip of the local Rosso di Montepulciano and Vino Nobile and you will be hooked. There are many underground caves which would suffice for a wine tour, but I found one with especially nice people, an especially nice tour, and especially nice wine that I will be taking future clients to. I can't wait to return!

This attempt at a panorama was taken from a great place to have lunch outside of the town with a fantastic view looking back to Montepulciano and the surrounding countryside.

Montepulciano, a window on Tuscany. Come join the fun! Book now for tours departing 2014. Drop me a line at [email protected]. Let’s discuss your future in Tuscany.

Day four had me picking up my rental car to begin my journey away from Rome. I made my way to Zagarolo, a charming little town only a half hour or so south of Rome where a friend of mine lives. I must say, I was enjoying every minute of driving a stick shift again :)

We started the day together at a winery (why not?). I was in search of cesanese wine, made from local Lazio grapes and a recent discovery for me, that I was eager to try more of. We arrived at Fedrici winery at 12:45 asking if we could taste a few wines. “Certo!” (Of course!), was the reply. We were led to the tasting room where the gentleman began to pull new bottles off the shelf.  “Wait!” I exclaimed. “Don’t you have bottles already open? Are you opening new bottles of everything just for us?” He glanced at his watch, and explained they hadn't had anyone in for wine tasting yet today, but he was happy to open bottles for us.  He glanced at his watch again. “In fact”, he said, “why don’t you just take these three bottles home with you and taste them there. You can always come back if you like it.” My friend and I glanced at each other. Was he offering us three free bottles of wine? When we offered to pay for the wine, he glanced at his watch again. “No, no. Please. Just take the wine, really. I’m happy to offer it to you. Come back if you want more.” And off he went, out the door, into his car, down the driveway…..and home to lunch; where I’m sure his wife was waiting with a hot dish of pasta…..much more important than wine sales. Only in Italy!

Our goal for the afternoon was to visit the monastery at Subiaco, a place I’d always wanted to go to, but somehow never managed to get to. First however, like the gentleman from the winery, we needed lunch. As we wound our way up the mountain to the monastery, we pulled off at a roadside restaurant. Our pasta portions with porcini mushrooms and another with meat ragu sauce were very filling. The amazing part of it though was the price. Have a look at the check. Our ¼ liter of house wine (cesanese at a cost of .80) was cheaper than our bottle of water (2.00). Only in Italy! 

And finally, the true highlight of the day;  the monastery at Subiaco. The drive there is filled with lots of twists and turns as we navigate our way higher and higher up Mount Talèo. Upon arrival, one must pass through the gate.........

........and stroll the path of trees growing surreally from the rocks. 

At the end of the path is a set of winding stone steps.........

.......and when you come to the top, you finally get your first phenomenal view of the monastery built into the side of the mountain. 

And what a view it is….breathtaking, truly.

The interior of the monastery is nearly indescribable. It is a rabbit warren of rooms, each connected at odd angles by series of steps. The frescoes are beyond amazing. The colors, scenes, and stories told are simply incredible. Large sections of the mountainside create interior walls in some areas. To think, St. Benedict lived as a hermit for three years in the “Sacro Speco” or Sacred Cave which visitors are now allowed to enter. 

Our trip to the monastery has been not only the highlight of my day, but in the end, a highlight of my entire trip. I am moved to speechlessness by the beauty and serenity of this place high up on the mountainside. A handful of white-robed Benedictine monks still reside here, and I think, maybe this wouldn’t be such a bad place to live. Only in Italy.

Rome was calling me. No, I don’t have the pope on speed dial, but Rome was calling. Once you have lived in Rome, regardless of whether you tossed coins in that beautiful fountain, you will return. Rome gets into your blood, under your skin, into your pores like no other city on earth to me. Yes, it is chaos and noise and bureaucracy, but it is also infinite beauty, and a way of life that is simply so…..simple. And so I find myself back in Rome, ready for a resurrection, eager to return to a city where a new discovery is around every corner. Join me on a little pictorial trip of Rome: Day one.

Lucky me, I have arrived in Rome just in time for lunch. Never one to dilly-dally where food is concerned, I toss my bags in my room, take the quickest of showers to refresh and revive myself, and head out the door to find good food. It’s Rome; I don’t have to go far. Not long into my stroll, I discover a new pizza-by-the-slice place called Grano. I wander in to see if it looks good, and……well, let’s just say it was so hard to decide which kind to have….so I only picked three.  Pizza-by-the-slice is weighed in Italy.  Isn’t that a great concept? You merely point out how much of each kind you would like, they cut off your piece with a big pair of scissors, weigh it, and put it in the big oven to reheat. In the meantime, you get your receipt, take it to the cashier, pay for your pizza, adding a drink if you’d like and by the time you get back to the pizza counter, your hot pizza is ready. This new place had some really interesting and delicious combinations:
1)      Radicchio with gorgonzola and walnuts
2)      Porcini mushrooms (They’re everywhere because they’re in season now!) with truffles
3)      Eggplant with tomato sauce
Not only will I be returning to Rome; I will be returning to this place!

Jet lag is beginning to set in. Time for a pick-me-up, and I know just the thing.  I head over to my favorite building in the whole city, the Pantheon. Nearby is one of my favorite treats in the whole city; a granita di caffe con panna from the coffeehouse Taza D’Oro. They squeeze some unsweetened whipped cream into the bottom of your cup, add in two scoops of sweetened coffee flavored icy granita, and top it off with more whipped cream. The strong coffee is tempered by the sweetness of the granita mixture which is tempered by the unsweetened whipped cream. It is perfection. It is THE cure for jet lag….in my opinion.

With a full belly and a nice jolt of caffeine, it was time to take in a little culture.  And what could be more apropos than a viewing of a fresco by Rafael.  Tucked in a little out of the way corner, not far from Piazza Navona, is the Chiostro del Bramante. The Cloister of Bramante is attached to a church called Santa Maria della Pace.  In this church is a most beautiful fresco by Rafael commissioned in 1500.  And from the upper reaches of the Cloister, if you look out a certain window, you get a bird’s eye view of Rafael’s fantastic work of art.  Looking at it makes me……sigh.

Next stop is one of my favorite markets for some food shopping to bring back to the U.S. This is one of many cases where the internet is simply misinformation. The market is not open late on this day as I had read on-line. Most of it is closed. Most, but not all. The fresh pasta shop is open. No, I will not be bringing fresh pasta back to the States, but the lady who makes the fresh pasta happens to also love making red wine cookies, and she has a fresh plate sitting out! When she sees me eyeing them, she hands me the plate and tells me to have one. Not wanting to offend her in any way, I help myself. They are SO good; better than the ones I've been trying to make at home which need more work. I’ll take a dozen please. For the equivalent of $4.00, I get 12 huge, delicious crispy cookies baked with red wine and glistening with sugar crystals.

With not much of the market open, I realize I will have to return another day to finish my shopping and so I head out. Glancing at my watch, I realize, it’s “wine time”. This is perfect!  Nearby is a wine bar I’ve been wanting to try out. The little bar has a few tables and chairs out on the sidewalk. Securing a spot on this beautiful day, I pop my head indoors to let them know I’m out there and find an adorable basement wine bar filled with music paraphernalia and legs of prosciutto ready to be hand-carved. Passaguai prides itself on its use of local products, and so I order a wine from the Lazio region. Ever in need of a little munchie, I also order a plate of mixed bruschette and a bowl of olives. The olives are incredibly buttery and when the bruschette arrive, they are beautifully plated and delicious. The wine, a blend which includes the cesanese grape, is one I hope to learn more about on this trip. It is wonderful. My bill amazes me when I ask for it. Not by the expense of it, but by the lack of expense. Welcome back to Rome.

As I head back to my dear friend’s apartment, I catch a glimpse of the sunset over St. Peter’s Basilica at the Vatican. What truer sign is there that I am in Rome? I have been resurrected.