The Amalfi Coast/Puglia Tour continues....

The group has allotted three nights to the Amalfi Coast, and I have decided to homebase us in the stunning town of Positano, where the buildings spill from the mountains to the sea.  We have so much to see and do and eat and drink. Let's get started!

We cruise our way to Capri, then spend the whole morning making our way all around the island at our leisure. With our small boat, we can nose right into little grottos to admire the rocks and crystalline waters. The weather in this late moment of September even permits us a swim! And then we get to go right through the rocks, and raise our wineglasses in salute as we do so!

Once we're done touring the island by water, it's time to tour it on land. Our open-air taxis await!

By now, we've really built up an appetite (even though we had delicious snacks and Prosecco on the boat). Time to take the chairlift back down and go eat! We have a really wonderful Slow Food lunch waiting for us.

Well, we are filled to the brim, and our taxis and boat await. There's just a little time to do some shopping, then off we go back to the marina where our captain, Roberto is waiting for us. As the sun lowers, we make our way back to Positano.

Continuing the Amalfi Coast/Puglia Tour....

After leaving Napoli, our next stop are the ruins of Pompei. This is such a fascinating place, made even more so on this visit, by the temporary addition of a vast number of modern art sculptures by the artist Igor Mitoraj. One gets this crazy juxtaposition of ancient and modern. Click here for more information on this artist and this particular exhibition: http://www.continiartuk.com/igor-mitoraj-exhibit-ancient-site-pompeii-2/
There is an incredible amount of history and information that can be dispensed at this wonderful site, so it takes a really good guide to make the ruins of Pompei come to life. Good thing we have just that! Emiliano walks us through history and we are fascinated by all he has to say. And to top it off, after the drizzle in Napoli, the weather has become perfection!

Stay tuned! Next stop....Positano! And my goodness, but we had some glorious adventures there! I can't wait to relive it....in my next blog post.

Turns out we were in the nick of time to help the city finish celebrating the Miracle of St. Gennaro (This occurs on Sept. 19, and we arrived on the 20th). Here's a link to an explanation: 
​https://cruxnow.com/global-church/2016/09/19/famed-blood-miracle-san-gennaro-unfolds-naples/
We were visiting the Church of St. Gennaro and got to see the liquified blood! The priest below is holding the ampule and people were welcome to come and give it a kiss. Also notice the shape of San Gennaro's hat...below on the right, on the bronze bust.

Of course, because it was such a special time, the pastry shops were also creating something special to help celebrate. I tasted a San Gennaro hat-shaped pastry....it was delicious! There was even an explanation of what was in it.

A lovely tradition in Napoli is called Caffe' Sospeso, or "Suspended Coffee". What it means, is you can pay ahead for a coffee for someone who will need one and not have the money. So if a coffee shop advertises this service, I can pay for a coffee for someone in need. At any time, someone who can't afford one, or forgot their wallet can stop in for a "free" coffee....not on the house, but on whoever chose to pay for one. So civilized.

The gang arrives to Italy just in time for lunch. (My kind of people.) After I organize their pick up from the airport, our first stop is to the delicious Trattoria Consolare in the tiny town of Ferentino. The chef has organized some special fall themed dishes just for us. Welcome Back to Italy!

Post lunch, our first overnight stop will be Naples (Napoli). So everyone climbs back into the van for a snooze as we make our way there. Once there, we check into our hotel which is perfectly located for all the sightseeing we want to do tomorrow. Get a good night's rest everyone! Tomorrow, we start walking....

We can spend a lot of time talking about all the variables that go into the making of a good glass of wine. Does it have more to do with a good vintage year or with the person making the wine? Does it have more to do with which side of the hill the grapes grew on, or how much water they received….or didn’t receive? What if the barrels were made from different kinds of oak? What if the wine had aged longer?

There are so many things that can affect the flavor of the wine. But to me, there is something else that is important to the taste as well. It’s much more subjective and much more emotional. It is the memory of where I had it for the first time. I love thinking back……. “Remember when we had that Sagrantino in Todi? We were eating those crostini with melted gorgonzola and honey and that wine was perfection, wasn’t it?” Or, “Remember when we were in that restaurant in Montefalco, and that guy kept bringing us all this great stuff we hadn’t ordered and telling us it was ‘on the house’? And then he poured us that huge glass of passito? It was so delicious, we bought a bottle to take home, remember?”

I have been lucky enough to have had some incredible winery experiences in Italy. I’ve seen the amazing diversity of Italy’s wineries; from small, rustic operations to architectural beauties to technological wonders. They have all been family-run, with most still having multi-generations living on or near the winery. I’ve tasted some truly beautiful wines, poured by people who are passionate about their product. 

On many occasions, my “first time” with a wine has been at the winery. After a deep whiff, I take a sip, let it roll around in my mouth, swallow, savor the after taste, and break into a smile. My eye meets that of the winemaker, and he breaks into a smile as well. He doesn’t have to tell me all about how he grew the grapes, where he grew the grapes, when he harvested the grapes, he just has to know that I loved his wine. In the end, it makes us both happy. 

Join me, won’t you…..on an Italian wine trail? Let’s meander the rolling hills of Tuscany or the hearty Umbrian countryside. Let me take you through lesser known areas like Lazio and Campania so you can discover something new and wonderful. Every, and I do mean every region of Italy has great wines, and most of them are not sampled outside of the country. You will find wines to fall in love with, and you won’t care how they were made, when you meet the eye of the winemaker.


Drop me a line at:

mailto:irene@bellagiornatatours.com

Let's start planning your next wine experience!

On my recent trip to Naples, I was struck by the incredible number of sweet pastries on display. Yes, it was Easter weekend, and I know that had something to do with it. But, I do believe Neapolitans have a distinct sweet tooth. There were three pastries in particular that were in great abundance:

Sfogliatelle

An establishment called Pintauro has been making sfogliatelle in Naples for something like 400 years. Isn’t that fact amazing in itself? I ate sfogliatelle many times when I lived in Rome, and I see them occasionally in the U.S. in specialty bakeries, sometimes called “lobster tails”. They are made up of umpteen layers of flaky pastry baked into a crispy treat, always in the same seashell shape. In Rome, I’d had them most often stuffed with custard, and sometimes chocolate. In Naples, at Pintauro, where they make the original recipe, they are stuffed with sweet ricotta cheese studded with orange zest and lots of vanilla bean flavor. I was so lucky to get mine hot out of the oven. It was so hot in fact, I had to break it open, and let it cool off a bit. When you bite in, there’s the crispy, buttery, flaky outer layer and then you reach the creamy, gooey, center. Oh my! I’d never had one quite like that in Rome!

Pastiera

This is a special Easter time treat. As such, it was being served by the slice in most coffee bars I went to. But there was also a shop near the convent where the recipe supposedly originated from, that seemed to be selling nothing but. I figured this must be the best place to buy a whole one. It’s a very interesting pastry. It has an exterior crust, but the inside is filled with a grain akin to our wheat barley which has been cooked in milk, making it into something like a sturdy rice pudding. This mixture is combined with ricotta cheese, eggs, sugar and orange zest along with other spices and poured into the crust and baked. It has the weight and density of a New York style cheesecake, but with the added texture of the grains. It’s seriously delicious, and great with a cup of coffee.

Babas

Babas were everywhere! There is wide variation on the spelling, as well as the soaking liquid, so bear with me here. Babas come in many sizes, but always in the same little mushroomy shape. They are made with yeast, so they have almost a bread-like texture. Sometimes, they are stuffed with cream, but mostly they come soaked in rum or limoncello. These too, were being served in all the coffee shops. In this photo you see them on the bottom two shelves. They can be purchased soaking in rum in jars, or in various sizes, stuffed, or not.

Many places were selling dried babas which I found entirely fascinating. I bought a bag thinking when I got home from my trip, I would soak them myself. The package says you should make a simple syrup, bring it to a boil, toss in the dry babas, stir them around quickly and then put them in a jar with any remaining syrup to soak. When you are ready to serve them, you are to dish them out, and top them with a spoonful of rum or limoncello. I decided to do it a little differently.

Last winter, I had made (and canned) mandarin syrup infused with vanilla bean. I popped open a jar and put in a pot to boil. When it came to a boil, I tossed in my package of dry babas, and added a goodly glug of rum. I was quite surprised when the babas soaked up ALL the syrup in the pot very quickly, yet when I tasted one, there were still dry spots inside. So, I made a small batch of simple syrup, took it off the heat and added another glug of rum. I put the babas in a big canning jar, and poured over the hot simple syrup. So now my babas have a double dose of syrup; one very orangey, the other plain….but both with rum. They’ve been soaking for an hour or so now, so let me go taste one again real quick. Hang on a sec….I’ll be right back…..

Oh. My. Goodness. That was delicious! Very sweet, not something you want to eat a whole plate of, but when you bite into it the syrup seeps out and you get this orange, vanilla, rum hit. Very nice. A nice little perk-me-up!

So now that I need a shot of espresso, I’m going to end my blog post here and go fix myself one. I really enjoyed all my little Neapolitan sweet treats. I hope you enjoyed reading about them. Would you like to taste them for yourself? Come with me to Naples! My Amalfi Coast tour is booking NOW for Sept. 23-Oct.3. Other dates are available if those dates don’t work for you. Drop me a line at irene@bellagiornatatours.com  Let me help you satisfy your sweet tooth.

I’m beginning to think about what to pack, which means a trip is fast approaching. I’ll be in Italy April 14-23 researching new itineraries, meeting lots of new connections, and checking in on old haunts to be sure these places are still as wonderful as I initially found them.

I start with a couple of days in Rome. I have a few new faces I’m scheduled to meet there, transportation routes and logistics to check for an upcoming tour, several new restaurants to try and of course, time set aside to visit with old friends. I will have a cooking day with my old kitchen cohorts which will be incredibly fun. Hopefully, by the end of this trip, I’ll finally get a handle on making gnocchi.

After Rome, I head off to Naples for a couple of nights. There, I’m very excited to experience a wine tour and a scenic tour as well as meet new guides, hoping to find new colleagues for future tour groups. I’m really looking forward to the opportunity to sample lots of the wines of Campania, and to be able to report back on the best ones.

I end my trip with a day or two in Umbria, meeting with winery folks, ceramics makers, artisanal food producers, drivers and guides; always trying to add new colleagues to my ever-growing list of great people to work with.

Friends think I’m on a boondoggle vacation; flitting around Italy, eating and drinking my way through ten days of pleasure. It’s not exactly like that actually. My days are filled with appointments, and I spend a lot of time rushing from here to there. Yes, I eat well, and I drink well. Please. I’m in Italy and I will take full advantage of great food and wine opportunities. I am not stupid. But foremost on my agenda are connections, people connections.

My clients work hard for their vacation dollars, and then they trust me with their time and money. I do not want to disappoint. I want to have lined up a string of great places to see, restaurants to eat in, food producers to meet and wineries to taste in. Then there are the bits the clients don’t really “see”. I need to be sure the hotels I choose are the right ones; clean and with great service, the drivers safe and courteous, the guides knowledgeable and entertaining. A lot goes into making someone’s dream vacation a dream come true.

So stay tuned for future blog posts from Italy, where yes, I will be eating and drinking my way through ten days of pleasure. But, more importantly, I’ll be hoping to meet a lot of great people along the way.

Italy, here I come!

Every time I see the Amalfi Coast, it never fails to take my breath away. There’s something about the small towns which seem to rise out of the sea and climb their way up the side of the mountain, the crystal clear waters dotted with colorful fishing boats bobbing about, the waves of beautiful purple bougainvillea clinging to the sides of precariously perched buildings. Everything is clinging; hanging on for dear life……kind of like me, while driving on the Amalfi Coast. 

Driving on the Amalfi Coast is not for the faint of heart. It’s more for the thrill-seeking personality. There are wonderful local buses which can transport you between the charming little towns. I have been on them. They can be crowded and carsick-inducing, and I’m just impatient enough to not want to operate on their schedule so, the car it is. 

The drive is best done with two people. The passenger becomes adept at quickly rolling down the window and pulling in the side mirror moments before it scrapes a rocky outcropping or another car half parked in the lane of traffic. The passenger’s job is also to disembark and stop traffic so the driver can maneuver into an impossible parking spot whereby the passenger then uses ridiculous hand signals to “help” the driver. 

It’s a lot of work, but this coastal drive is so worth it. It has the most amazing views. The serpentine coastline winds its way around vertical towns; the sparkling ocean ever-present in the background. 

And once you arrive at each little town, there is so much to see. Even if you are not there during beach-going season, there are still lots of things to do. There are beautiful churches, adorable shops, little museums, pretty piazzas, and miles of potential walking to admire the view.

And of course there is always the food….. Naturally, seafood is at its best here. There are amazing mixed grill platters, and pastas made with all sorts of fish. But don’t forget to have some locally made Limoncello; the sweet lemon liqueur the area is so famous for. Actually, you won’t be able to forget, as it is offered most everywhere you go! Best of all, you never gain weight as there is no way to get around all the walking you’re going to have to do. There’s very little flat surface; you’re either going uphill or downhill.....all the time.

The Amalfi Coast is a stunningly beautiful place, worthy of a portion of your trip to Italy. You won’t be able to get enough of the scenery. When you set eyes upon it for the first time, be sure to drink it in because once you see it, you won’t be able to forget it and you’ll want to return again and again and…….

Drop me a line at irene@bellagiornatatours.com

Let’s talk about your future trip to Italy. I can’t wait. Can you?

After two days “off” for cooking lessons (which I will blog about another day), I’m on the road again, (Oct. 7) eager to explore the archaeological site of Paestum. I am on a mission to develop new itineraries in Campania. I have a lot of territory to cover in an amount of time which increasingly seems to be not long enough. Paestum is located at the southern end of the famed Amalfi Coast. During the years I lived in Rome, trips to the Amalfi Coast were frequent treats, but somehow a visit to Paestum eluded me. Today, that error is thankfully rectified. 

Founded by the Greeks around 600 BC, Paestum (then called Poseidonia) had an ideal position. Located near waterways, trade routes and fertile soils; it thrived and three stunning Doric temples were constructed. In later years, it was taken over by the Romans who renamed it Paestum, and added many more features such as baths, an amphitheatre and a forum. In AD 877, the city was destroyed by invading Saracens and its citizens fled to escape not only the invaders, but also malaria. Flash forward to the 18th century, when the overgrown city was rediscovered, and today its isolated setting makes for a wonderful and very special sightseeing destination.

Above, on the left is the Temple of Ceres. On the right, you see the Temple of Neptune in the foreground and the Temple of Hera in the background. We visited Paestum on a day which threatened rain that never materialized. Regardless of blue sky, or cloudy, it was hard to take a bad picture in this most beautiful of settings.

I would hate for you to think that I went a whole day without indulging in some delicious food and wine. And so I leave you with a few pictures from lunch:

Lunch today is a simple meat and cheese platter. I am after all, in the land of Buffalo Milk Mozzarella and you can see by the milkiness of the cheese how fresh it is. As luck would have it, I am also in the land of Aglianico wine; a new found favorite of mine. This inexpensive "house wine" is perfect for the moment. And every meal should be topped off with a perfect espresso. We found one at nearby Bar Museo where the excellent barista also gave us a free sample of fig liqueur.  Ahh......Italy.

Join me in 2014! Let's explore the Amalfi Coast together. Stay tuned for upcoming blogs as I make my way up the coast......

Ah, summertime….time for fun in the sun, time to head to the beach. If you are in Italy, watch out! You might get run over trying to get there. Life on an Italian beach is distinctly different from beach time in the U.S. in many ways:

For one thing, Italians tend to head to the beach in droves during the summer. Sun worshipers all seem to get vacation at the same time, and peak summer months mean peak crowds at popular beach destinations. When I lived there, I enjoyed quiet beach time by going in late May through the first week of July and again in early September; times when the weather was still fantastic, but the crowds significantly thinner. When the rest of Italy headed to the beach for the bulk of July and August, I would head to the hill towns of Umbria for cool breezes and cool evenings.

Another difference is that many Italian families stay at the beach for long periods of time….as in the whole summer. As long as the kids are on break from school, many Italian moms rent summer apartments along the beaches for extended stays. Dad comes and joins the family on weekends and for the couple of weeks he can get off for vacation.  

One of the joys of beach life in Italy is not only can you rent a beach apartment; you can actually rent part of the beach! Families reserve and pay in advance for the requested number of chaise lounge chairs and beach umbrellas in a specific “row” of sand. The beach is sectioned off into parcels, each managed by different (usually family) businesses. Each beach manager has different colored umbrellas and offers an array of services. When you pay for your chaise lounger and umbrella, you also get to use that particular beach parcel’s restroom, changing room, outdoor shower and have access to their restaurant/bar.

When you reserve a beach spot, it’s yours for the day. If you want to go to a nearby restaurant for lunch, or go back to your apartment and cool off for a while, no problem. You can leave your towels and other non-valuables, as the beach manager knows this spot is reserved for you, and will not allow anyone else to take it.  I have been to beaches which appear nearly empty, but there are no spaces available.  It’s because maybe its lunch time, and everyone has gone off to eat, but the beach spots still belong to them.  In fact, some families rent these beach spaces for the whole summer, ensuring they will always have a spot even if there are days they don’t go to the beach at all.

Beach shopping.  Who knew there was such a thing?  But yes, in Italy the shopping comes to you…..on the beach!  What can you buy?  All manner of items and services.  For starters, you can get a nice back or leg massage. Soon, someone pushing a cart with an incredible array of beach toys will come ambling along.  Before long, someone else will stop by, selling beach towels and various swimsuit cover-ups in case you've forgotten yours or just want a new look.  Then of course someone wants you to buy sunglasses.  Or how about some pretty jewelry?  And we are talking about Italy, so there is food for sale as well.  Really refreshing things like watermelon slices or freshly cracked coconut meat. If you see a man carrying a bucket and yelling “cocomero!” grab some coins and run after him!

And speaking of food……as I mentioned earlier, each parcel of beach has its own bar/restaurant. I have had some incredible meals at these places.  There’s one in particular I love on the Amalfi Coast. When the sun has become too much to bear, dart over the hot sand, rinse your feet in the outdoor shower, and have a seat in the open-air restaurant.  There’s always amazing melon with prosciutto which is so refreshing.  If you’re lucky, mama’s in the back today pulling her delicious eggplant parmesan out of the oven.  It. Is. So. Good. Or maybe you’d like some incredibly fresh fish, or a seafood salad.  Everything is served on beautiful ceramic plates….on the beach!  The house wine is delicious (and comes in an equally charming ceramic carafe) and the people are so, so nice. 

As I said, these are mostly family affairs. Dad’s over in the corner playing cards with his buddies.  Mama’s in the kitchen. Two brothers are serving food and drink. One of their sons is putting umbrellas up and down and setting chairs out on the sand.  And every one of them has a smile on their face. They love their jobs. Please. We’re on the Amalfi Coast. The sun is shining. The water is sparkling. Tan bodies flip like fish in a frying pan. Smell ripe melons, salt air and sunscreen. There is fabulous food and wine on the table. And all around you happy people are speaking Italian. What’s not to love?

Travel with me and Bella Giornata Tours. Let’s experience a sparkling day on the beach somewhere along the Amalfi Coast.  Join me in 2014.  You set the dates. Early summer and early fall are best.  Let's go alla spiaggia!