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A Wild Way to Start the Day....

10/31/2014

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Yesterday, I let everybody off the hook easy. Today, we're going to ramp it up a bit. In fact, we're going to get everyone's juices flowing by starting the day with a wild cage ride! 

The beautiful hill town of Gubbio has had these "birdcage" rides forever. They are so fun! There are two circles painted on the platform. One person stands in each. As the cage approaches the first circle, the attendant swings open the door, and the first person hops on while the cage is still moving. Then the second person hops aboard, the attendant slams the door shut, and you're off!

The ride takes you up the mountain side for spectacular views over Gubbio and the surrounding countryside. The trip is quite vertical, and today, it's quite windy. But my intrepid crew is ready for the adventure!
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Ok, we're all on board. Up, up and away we go!
The ride up is exciting and exhilirating and the views are spectacular!
The view on our way up.
The view of the historic center of Gubbio.
We're about to arrive at our destination at the top of the mountian.
It's a blustery day, so we just take time for a few photos and a look about before heading back down.
Back down to earth from our ride, our driver drops us off in the historic center of Gubbio. The group now has a little free time to walk around and explore this beautiful hill town before we meet up for lunch.
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The troops begin to gather....it must be time to eat! We are trying out a new lunch spot today, and we are so glad we did!


Lunch was outstanding and the service was really grand. We fell in love with our waiter Marcello who was just such a nice man. And to top it off, the owner of the restaurant himself, Ulise, came out and spent a lot of time talking to us about truffles. He was so passionate about his ingredients, his food, his restaurant....really lovely. And...the food was delicious!
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Gubbio has been so fun and treated us well, but it is time to move on. We're on our way to the Eurochocolate Festival (Yes, can you believe there even is such a thing?!) in Perugia, but we have a quick stop to make on the way. 

We'll be stopping at Frantoio Trampolini, an olive oil mill where we will have a chance to see how the oil is made, as well as have a taste. Antonio Trampolini, the patriarch of the family shows us an old mill stone, explaining how the olives used to be crushed in years past. Then he takes us inside to see the modern equipment used today.

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And now it's time to taste the oil. First we are offered a taste of the oil from last year's harvest. It's delicious, but then Antonio gives us some great news. Though it is early, just yesterday, they crushed a small amount of olives. So......we are so lucky to be able to test the freshly pressed oil! You can see (and taste!) the difference between last year's oil and the new oil. Delicious!
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Luckily, we arrive early....on the first day of the festival, really just as it is getting underway. I have been to this festival in years past when it has been so crowded as to be nearly unbearable. But this evening is perfect...we go our separate ways, strolling, ogling the chocolate, tasting the chocolate, buying the chocolate......
After lots of purchases and hugs goodbye, we pile back into the van and make the very short trip to Perugia for the EuroChocolate Festival.
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We're headed back to Spello now to end our day with a lovely dinner and more fantastic wine from Umbria. So I leave you with this final photo of the day, taken from the top of Perugia looking back over the countryside as the sun is going down.

We've had a long and very productive day. The back of the van is filled with olive oil, chocolate and other purchases made during the day. Ahhh.....Italy. Sigh.


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A Day in Assisi

10/28/2014

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After last night's gigantic wine tasting dinner, I thought it best to start off slow this morning :)
Everyone gets a chance to sleep in if they'd like, or to explore their new town, Spello on their own for the morning. There are no committments until noon when it's time to climb back into what has become affectionately known as the "clown car". You know what "noon" means, don't you? Yes, that's right....it's time for lunch!

Our lunch today is at a favorite place just outside of Assisi. The building itself used to be used to house animals way back in the day. It's very rustic and delicious. Just take a peek......
On the left is polenta topped with a sausage ragu along with delicious beans, and sandwiched between the two are some ricotta and spinach dumplings. On the right is the mixed contorni plate filled with veg either done on the grill or in the ashes. What ashes you ask? These ashes...! So many delicious meats are done on the grill here, and potatoes and onions are buried in the ashes to cook as well.
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Now that our bellies are full (yet again), we have the stamina to head off for the sightseeing portion of our trip to Assisi. We are joined by our official guide who escorts us through the famous and lovely Basilica of San Francesco. We are thrilled to see the beautiful frescoes and awed by the crypt of St. Francis.
 
The group has the remainder of the afternoon to explore Assisi on their own, stopping to see whatever they would like to take a closer look at.

Personally, I'm always amazed by the number of bakery/sweet shops in Assisi. People from this town seem to have an crazy affinity for sweets...my kind of people.

We have a very full day ahead of us tomorrow as we ramp up the schedule a bit. So this evening, everyone gets to relax, have dinner on their own back in Spello and enjoy each other's company. Tomorrow.....wild cage rides! Stay tuned!
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Making our Way into Umbria

10/27/2014

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Time to leave the slow life at the agriturismo, and pick up the pace a little bit as we continue deeper into Umbria. Heaven forbid we should pick up the pace too quickly though. Before we leave Fontanaro we take a stroll past the grape vines, past the bee hives, and on to the olive oil mill. 
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Fontanaro processes all of its own olives on the premises. We take a quick peek at how it is done, before saying our good-byes.
After lots of olive oil purchases, and lots of hugs, we load up the van and say a final farewell. 

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But we don’t get far. It’s already lunch time, so we stop in the tiny town of Paciano for a really delicious lunch. 




This is the appetizer plate for one! We eat fabulous dishes like a cold salad made from locally sourced beans and perch from nearby Lago Trasimeno. Someone orders pasta filled with local greens and herbs, and their grilled meats are delicious. Okay, now….....we’re really going to hit the road.

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We’re on our way to Spello, but first we make a quick stop at one of the loveliest churches I have ever seen. It’s not the church itself that impresses as much as what is hiding inside of it. Inside this gigantic church is a tiny gem called the Portiuncula; the hut-like, but heart-stopping tiny church that St. Francis rebuilt himself as a gathering place for his ever-increasing number of followers back in the 1200’s. 

(Note: This photo was taken on a previous trip. Photos of the interior of this church are not allowed.)

Finally we arrive to Spello with plenty of time to settle into our individual apartments before our big wine tasting dinner tonight. Spello is one of my favorite Umbrian hill towns and holds a special place in my heart. For some reason, I find this town very relaxing. For its tiny size, it holds an inordinate number of delicious restaurants and cute shops. Yet, it retains its very small town feel. Meals here seem to go on forever just like the panoramic views seen from the medieval walls. I love it here.
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Tonight we dine and taste with Roberto and Irene Angelini, the father/daughter team of Enoteca Properzio. Our group has a private room to ourselves. Food begins to arrive, wine begins to flow…. As each course arrives, Roberto and Irene pop back in to pour a new wine and tell us a little about it. Then we are left alone to enjoy our meal until the next item arrives. The food is wonderful and the wines are fantastic. The evening continues on with lots of laughter, conversation, jokes…..no one is looking at a clock. This is how a meal should be enjoyed.

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And so ends another day of the tour! Tomorrow we’ll be spending the day in nearby Assisi. Stay tuned…

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It's Pizza Making Day!

10/26/2014

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Our visit to Agriturismo Fontanaro has come at the perfect point in our itinerary. We are about halfway through our trip, and everyone could use a little "down-time".

My group of clients, all family and friends, have a whole villa to themselves! After last night's late birthday dinner, today they get to sleep in a bit, and fix their own breakfast when they feel like it.

They just have to be ready by noon today. What's happening at high noon? It's pizza-making time!
Before we start making the pizza dough, we have a little olive oil tasting lesson. We're tasting the olive oil that is produced at Fontanaro. We look at the color, smell the aroma, and have a taste.  It's just like tasting wine!
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We will be making our pizzas in a wood-fired oven. It actually takes many hours for the oven to get hot enough, so the fire has been burning in the oven all morning.



Now comes time to make the pizza dough. Anna shows us how to make the dough from scratch. She builds a well of flour, adds a pinch of salt, some olive oil and a yeast mixture. Then comes the mixing and kneading. 


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Because the dough needs time to rise, the dough we're making is not actually what we'll be using today. Anna already prepped our dough earlier in the day. Isn't it beautiful?

Everyone takes their turn working the dough, stretching, kneading...until it is nice and smooth. Then the dough gets a second rising on the pan, before it is finally ready to roll out.


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We start rolling, and building a huge variety of pizzas. The first pizzas are topped with the classic Umbrian ingredients of sweated onions, and fresh sage. And of course ALL the pizzas get a liberal drizzle of Fontanaro's delicious, organic olive oil.
Next up, the classic Margherita pizza:
And, one of my personal favorites; zucchini blossoms both, with and without anchovies. (I prefer with.)
Here's another pizza that was new to all of us. Lucia cooked two blank pizza doughs in the oven. On top of the first one, she spread a delicious creamy cheese. The cheese was topped with lots of fresh arugula, then she pressed the second cooked pizza dough on top; like a sandwich. It was a pizza with fabulous contrasts. In each bite, you got the crispy crust with the creamy cheese and hot dough with cold arugula...very interesting and delicious.
Here are a few more photos in case you're not hungry yet:
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And last, but not least.....did you know dessert can be made in the same oven? Lucia whipped up these delicious brioche buns, and after they came out of the oven, we split them open and filled them with ice cream! I know.....over-the-top deliciousness!
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Alina Pinelli
We have had a simply fabulous day with Alina, her mom Lucia and Anna in the outdoor kitchen. The group thoroughly enjoyed their relaxing stay at Fontanaro. Though they swear they can never eat again, the group manages to cook themselves their own supper in their villa this evening. Tomorrow, we will be leaving Paciano for more adventures in Umbria.  Click on the link below to see a lovely little video of our group making pizza (made by Alina).  http://t.co/eqad5rKUDn
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Food, Wine and Romance

10/20/2014

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Our first stop today was at a sheep farm near Pienza in Tuscany, where they make fabulous Pecorino cheese. Antonietta did a wonderful job of explaining her family’s cheese making operation to us. We got to tour the facility, see the cheese in the aging room, and then (best of all….) taste it! 

She had set a beautiful table for us, in a lovely cottage, with four kinds of Pecorino cheese, delicious yogurt, honey and jam, bruschetta w/olive oil, and house made wine. It was all so delicious, and the group made many purchases before heading to our next stop.
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Stop number two was in the lovely town of Montalcino. The group met up with local relatives, and had a fun time at lunch together. 



I, in the meantime, let them have some private, family time and headed off with the group’s translator to explore a new restaurant. What a find…..a future tour stop for sure! These beans were sooooo delicious, the view stupendous, and the wine…..sigh.
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Now, comes the Romance part! One of the gentlemen on the trip had wanted to renew his wedding vows for their 30th wedding anniversary. It was to be a surprise for the wife. Everyone in the group was “in on it”, except her! Arrangements were made to have the event at a beautiful medieval abbey in the countryside outside Montalcino. It was a simple, heartfelt wedding vow renewal. We all cried….then drank Prosecco!

And speaking of drinking…..after the abbey, our next stop was a wonderful winery in the Tuscan countryside.  Two very exciting things happened here, which were new experiences for everyone in the group….including me. One; I got to barrel taste Brunello! I had never experienced barrel tasting before. The cellar master, Agnes, used her special equipment to extract aging Brunello for us to taste. What a treat! And Two; we got to see where corks come from! I knew corks came from the natural bark of a cork tree, but I had never really envisioned how that actually happened. Most corks come from Sardegna or Portugal, and we got to see a sample of where they come from. Maybe I should organize a trip to Sardegna to see an actual cork production facility…..what do you think?
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Uccelliera Winery is owned and operated by Andrea Cortonesi and his family, pictured to the left. On the right side of the photo, you see Agnes the cellarmaster who was so helpful during the surprise wedding vow renewal and then again as she gave us a fabulous tour of the winery.
As I said, today was all about Food, Wine and Romance. What a great day! What’s in store for tomorrow? Food, Wine and Birthdays! This group loves a party!

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Making our Way to Tuscany

10/18/2014

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With four days of Rome under our belts, it is time to leave the city and make our way north to southern Tuscany. We’ll get there via a couple of interesting stops along the way. Lazio, the area surrounding Rome is filled with hidden treasures like these:
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First stop is a stroll through the Sacred Woods of the Parco dei Mostri in Bomarzo to view some unique and somewhat bizarre creatures hidden around every corner. It’s a great place to stretch your legs, and have a whimsical walk in the woods.
Then it’s on to an ancient and crumbling village perched high atop its own little bluff. It is a bit of a trek to get to it; lots of uphill climbing. But that only serves to build up your appetite, and you’ll need a good appetite for all the tasty little lunch treats in store for us here.
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Next stop, the beautiful hilltop town of Orvieto. The duomo here is one of the most beautiful in Italy, and inside are some really fantastic frescoes (which we are not allowed to take pictures of). We have a nice little guided walk here before moving on to our final destination; a B & B in lower Tuscany.  

We had some great adventures today! What's in store for tomorrow? Food, Wine.........and Romance!
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Learn How to Make a Wood Fired Oven Pizza!

10/17/2014

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Follow the link below to see a short video of my current tour group. We are having a Wood Fired Oven Pizza Making Lesson......IN ITALY! Looks like fun, doesn't it? Join an upcoming tour; believe me, I'd be more than happy to have the experience again. Come to Italy. Have a Bella Giornata. Join me, for a Beautiful Day in Italy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX0CCRQlRlg
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Rome: Where It All Begins

10/16/2014

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Note: This blog post is being written while I am in Italy with a wonderful tour group of seven people. I’m writing behind schedule because I’m having too much fun with my group to stop and write every day. So, here, I play catch up……

What would a journey to Italy be without a few days in Rome? If you've never been to Italy before, then trips to see the top two sights are a must-do. Our group took in two half day walking tours (on two different days) of the Coliseum/Roman Forum and the Vatican Museum/Sistine Chapel/St. Peter’s with a wonderful licensed guide. Stuart made history come alive for us; telling us stories of the past while pointing out the remains in the present.
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We spent a fabulous morning with our guide at the Coliseum followed by entry into the Roman Forum. Our private tour got to skip the line and go right in, and with the headsets we wore, we could hear his every word. To top it off, the October weather is fantastic! 

Days of walking do build up one's appetite and thirst! Not wanting to deprive ourselves, we always make sure to stop for plenty of food and wine. On this particular evening, we go to a serious wine tasting dinner. Look! Placemats made just for our group!
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Here are a few more miscellaneous shots from our first couple of days spent in Rome:
Learning to drink from an Italian water fountain.
On the Spanish Steps
In awe of St. Peter's
A group -rated favorite dessert from one of our group meals.
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And we also managed to fit in a trip to a great local food market! This photo (on the right) was taken at a stall where locals can fill up their own containers, or buy empty 1 liter containers for their "house"wine. The group decided to give it a try and bought a liter to take back to their hotel. They loved it!

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Somehow, the market butchers always love the camera when they have knives in hand :)
What better way to end evenings in Rome than to stroll the streets, basking in the golden glow of ancient monuments. Our time in Rome is over, but this is just the beginning really. Tomorrow, we head out into the countryside, going north into lower Tuscany. More adventures, food, and wine await us!
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Welcome to Casamonti Farm….in the heart of Chianti Country....in the heart of Tuscany.

10/8/2014

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I’ve recently had a most fabulous visit at Casamonti Farm located in the heart of Chianti Country which is located in the heart of Tuscany. This is no ordinary farm. It is a combination of scientific marvel and culinary delight. “What?!” you ask. “That doesn’t sound very tasty.” Oh, but it is. Let me explain…..
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About 20 years ago, the world was about to lose a breed of pig called Cinta Senese to extinction. They are a fascinating animal to look at. Cinta means “belt” in Italian and you can see they have an interesting pinkish color to resemble a belt around their upper mid-section while the rest of them is black. They also have longer legs than the normal pig, bigger and flappier ears for eye protection, and really sturdy and longer snouts for digging in the ground. And….they’re delicious!

Casamonti’s owner, Raymond Lamothe was one of the key people to help bring the Cinta Senese back from extinction. And now, he and his wife Anna Rita breed and raise these special pigs on their farm, Casamonti. When a pig is born, genetic testing is done to determine whether this pig should be raised for breeding purposes, or whether after two years, it will become part of the food chain. After a pig is butchered the meat is brought back to Casamonti where it becomes all kinds of delicious things. 
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What makes Cinta Senese meat taste so good? Well, it is a combination of things. Firstly, the pigs are fed a mixture of grains which are certified non-GMO, organic, and grown within the borders of Tuscany. Also, the pigs are allowed extensive periods of time to forage in the forests for themselves. This means the pigs are eating things they are meant to eat, following the seasons. For example, now, in the fall, they are eating acorns they find, while in the spring, they might be munching on wild asparagus. Casamonti has a large amount of forested land which is fenced to keep the special pigs in, and the wild boars out.
Cinta Senese are so special, they have received the special D.O.P. designation from the government. This stands for Denominazione di Origine Protetta or Protected Designation of Origin. Products labelled D.O.P. give you the guarantee that this product has been made locally using traditional methods by artisanal producers. Other food products to receive D.O.P. labeling are items like Parmegiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar, and certain olive oils among others.

So, what does all this mean to you, and me, the consumers who might make a visit to Casamonti? It means you will taste some of the best cured meats you have ever had in your life. A visit to Casamonti means a stroll with the elegant and charming Anna Rita; a woman who is passionate about her cooking, the products made on the farm, and making sure her guests have a wonderful visit. It means you’re going to have a darn good time. 

My Casamonti Lunch:
Join me won’t you, on a Tuscan adventure? We’ll tour the curing rooms to see the cured meats drying, and then return to their picturesque terrace to sample them. Their capocollo is going to make your head spin. I promise. We can also taste their fabulous wines and olive oils, all produced from their grapes and olives….or stay for lunch….or have a cooking lesson. You decide; it’s your adventure. Drop me a line at: [email protected] and let’s start planning your trip to Italy and to Casamonti Farm.
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Rome, Day 2: Begins Exactly How it Should

10/1/2014

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My second day in Rome begins exactly how it should....exactly how I had hoped it would....with a wonderful cappuccino, a beautiful cornetto, and the company of a great friend. Though I had a million things to tick off of my "to-do" list, there is no more civilized way to start the day than to welcome it the Italian way. And so rather than stand at the bar for a knock-it-back espresso, we took to a table to start the day with sips, munches, and conversation. Ahh......

Next stop, the fabulous Trionfale Market. Every time I'm in Rome I love to stop in here, not only to make purchases.....which I did, but just to soak up the local flavor. I mean that quite literally as I had samples of porchetta, olives, wine cookies and mozzarella cheese while shopping! Speaking of mozzarella cheese....the hubster will love these photos. I couldn't bring home these fascinatingly shaped cheeses, so he'll have to settle for the giant package of wine cookies I bought for him instead.
Recycling! I love the clever use of empty wine bottles to display the sausages.












More market photos:
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You know I'm all about the food and wine, so it seemed appropriate that after the food market, I should make my next stop one of Rome's best wine shops.

I'll take you inside in a moment. First, notice the young man's head in the bottom right side of the photograph? It appears that his head is resting on the sidewalk. How can that be?

It was delivery day. When that happens, they open the metal "storm doors" in the sidewalk. Installed underground is a slide. One young man climbs down into the hole and places boxes of wine at the top of the slide. Inside the store, in the lower level, another young man is receiving the cases at the bottom of the slide. Genius!

Now, let's go inside! It's beautiful, isn't it? The photo on the left is all liquors, grappas, etc. The photo on the right is just one of the many aisles downstairs filled with wines from every region of Italy!
Unfortunately, my lunch photos didn't come out very well....though the lunch itself was delicious. Instead, I bring you post-lunch photos. The best way to finish lunch is with a great macchiato or espresso. Today, I discovered a great new coffee place in my old neighborhood. Oh my goodness, it was exactly what the doctor ordered.
Though my lunch photos didn't turn out, my dinner photos did. This evening Rome was hit with an amazing thunderstorm. The rain was torrential, and lightning strikes and thunder abounded. It was the kind of rainstorm for which waterproof clothing was invented....and for which, it doesn't work. And to top it off, I was hungry. I was hungry at the peak, most rainy, lightning-ish, thunder-y part of the storm. Go figure. I ventured forth, down the slippery Spanish Steps, slogging my way to the pizza-by-the-slice place I meant to go to yesterday. Odd, hardly anyone else in the city was out at all. The shop was nearly empty and they were eager to tell me about all the different kinds of pizza available this evening. I chose two types: one with truffles and porcini mushrooms (so decadent!) and the other with artichokes (love them!). Torrential rain, crackling thunder, lightning spikes, shoes soaked. Worth it!!
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